A Visit to the Aba, Nigeria Temple

Due to security concerns, I wasn't sure I would ever get to visit the Aba, Nigeria Temple.  But with special security arrangements and travel plans, I made it!  This was a very eye opening experience for me.  I am thankful for opportunities that help me better understand Gregg's world.  


Gregg has often told me that Aba is his favorite temple because he was there when President Hinckley dedicated it and had some very special experiences there.  The grounds remind him of the Garden of Eden and there is a profound feeling of peace in this sometimes troubled region of the world.  

We were there for the Employee Christmas Social.  The employees were visibly happy that Gregg came.  One person there described it like this, "every time Gregg Dunn comes here it gives us all a boost."  I don't think anyone knew we were coming.  I have often taken comfort that part of what keeps him safe is that he just shows up unannounced and leaves just as quietly. 

It was very interesting for us to be THE only white people around from the airport to the temple grounds.  At some of the traffic stops, there are vendors (including some children).  They would enthusiastically point at me and smile.  Gregg explained, "They haven't seen a white lady in quite a while."  We passed through 10-15 military/police checkpoints.  It gave me an eery feeling but Gregg says it helps keep the bandits and kidnappers in check.  He reminded me that these are the "good guys."  

Thanksgiving in Ghana

Thanksgiving in Ghana is a unique and fun event.  We gathered with 40 of our dearest friends at the home of our Area President and enjoyed a very traditional Thanksgiving Feast.  With us were the Area Presidency, the Accra Temple Presidency, Mission Presidents from Accra and the MTC, missionary couples and expat employees.  There is nothing like a taste of home when you live abroad.  

We probably enjoyed the same things you did:  turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, gravy, green bean casserole, sweet potatoes, relish tray, fresh fruit salad and homemade rolls and pies. 


 In my quest to make the perfect stuffing, I do admit that I spent $15 for a bunch of celery.  I'm sure it is imported and this is the one time a year that I give myself permission to indulge and buy celery.  Everything we buy here costs 3-4 times what we would pay in the U.S. because it all has to be brought in from elsewhere.  Local fruit and vegetables are the exception.


The most unique thing about our Thanksgiving in Ghana was how we got a turkey.  You can buy a frozen turkey here and it will cost $100.  When we returned from Conference in October, Gregg packed a frozen turkey in his carry-on.  As long as it is frozen, TSA has no problem with it.  They did want to take a look at it and wondered why he would pack a turkey.  He told them that he works in Ghana, Africa and he wants turkey on Thanksgiving!  Their response was to give him a high five.  And it arrived still frozen!

Batik Class with Esther

Five ladies and I headed to Adenta on Saturday to learn the art of batik from our dear friend Esther.  I have come to be grateful for an iPad with a map feature; we never got lost once!  Here is Esther with the wall of batik stamps (foam blocks with a design carved into them).  The hardest part of batiking was choosing which stamps to use and what 3 colors of dye to experiment with.  The rest was just fun.  


For me it went like this.

Step 1:  Stamp the design with parafin wax on the white fabric.

Step 2:  I chose to dye the fabric blue and it was laid it out to dry on the grass (it is amazing to watch the color change as the fabric dries).


Step 3:  Stamp a different design with parafin wax on the blue fabric.

Step 4:  Next I chose to dye the fabric purple and it was laid it out to dry on the grass.


Step 5:  Stamp a different design with parafin wax on the purple fabric.

Step 6:  I chose to dye the fabric dark purple and it was laid out on the grass to dry (it turned navy blue - oh well).

Fortunately, we had help with the dying process which really requires rubber boots, gloves, and apron.  We also had help with the final step which is dipping the fabric in a boiling cauldron to remove the wax for reuse.

I'm happy with the outcome; I think all six of us are.  I have a great kitchen tablecloth! 

Our amusement for the day was this little fellow, who was only tied up because we were there.  

Ghana golf

Yes, we golf in Ghana.  It may not be a beautiful course like we are used to in the U.S., but for a golf-starved husband ... it will do.  


Our favorite course so far is the Tema Country Golf Club.  During the wet season we have pretty good greens and some grass on the fairways.  During the dry season it is hard packed fairways, but Gregg likes it because he gets a great roll.  There's a lot of red dirt so we come home pretty dusty from the knees down.  

There are no electric golf carts here, so you walk and a caddy is required.  A caddy is really essential, it is too hot and humid to carry your own clubs.  But the most important part is that if you have a good caddy, you never, never lose a golf ball in the trees.  These guys are truly amazing.  They seem to have telescopes for eyes.  They go right to where the ball entered the jungle and disappear and come back in a few moments with your ball.  Also, if you want, your ball will always be on a tuft of grass, much better than on the dirt where your ball may have come to rest.  As long as they know what you want, that is what you will get.  The price for this wonderful service is about $10 and you buy them a cold bottle of water between the 9th and 10th holes.

On our first visit, there were two "greens" which were hard packed sand covered with oil. They have now been replaced with grass greens.  Gregg says the greens are not too bad and probably the best part of the course.  

They have a nice outdoor clubhouse where you can get a cold water or soda which is wonderful considering how very hot and humid it is here.  Although Gregg tees off early he is usually soaking wet to his knees after nine holes.  I worry sometimes as it is a set up for heat exhaustion.  We've decided that on those 'hotter than hades' days, maybe 9 holes is enough.   

Fishy business in Tema

Since we were a little unsure of the street fish vendors here in Accra, we decided to go to the source.  We made the 30 minute trip to a fish market in a nearby port city (Tema) with friends.  The expats from the U.S. Embassy go here and one of them was our guide.

We really enjoy markets and bartering for things, so this was very fun (especially for Gregg)! We took a camera and a cooler with ice to bring our prizes home. The trick of the matter is knowing how to determine if the fish is fresh:

• Look for bright, clear eyes. The eyes are the window to a truly fresh fish, as they fade quickly into gray dullness. Dull-eyed fish may be safe to eat, but they are past their prime.
• Next look at the fish. Does it shine? Does It look metallic and clean?  Has it dulled or does it have discolored patches on it? If so, It is marginal.
• Smell it. A fresh fish should smell like clean water, or a touch briny or even like cucumbers.  Under no circumstance should you buy a nasty smelling fish. Cooking won't improve it!
• Look at the gills. They should be a rich red. If the fish is old, they will turn the color of faded brick

Our prizes: We bought 2 “medium” sized lobsters for $5 each; we had them cut the tails off. Red Snapper, we bought 2 large ones for about $5 each; we had them filleted.  A large, irresistable grouper (18 pounds) for $53; we had them fillet it (this made 9 meals).  Two Sole for about $5 total and they skinned them for us. We wanted Swordfish, but there was none.  We passed on the Calamari (Squid), Tuna, and Tilapia, but they looked good.

They offered us the fish heads and tails from our purchase, but we passed.  Next time we will bring them back for the security guards or our Ghanaian friends that like to make fish head soup (very popular here).

We already have a shopping list for our next trip:  tuna, swordfish and more lobsters!

Road Trip to Wli Falls

It's not Yosemite... but Ghana's Wli falls are magnificent.  We heard how wonderful Wli (pronounced Vlee) falls are, especially during the rainy season.  These are the highest waterfalls in West Africa cascading down 60 to 80 meters, falling into a pool at the base of the cliff.  We took a 3 day road trip with friends from the West Africa Area Office, overnighting in Ho, Ghana both going to and coming from the falls.  Along the way, we visited the Akosombo Dam, a Monkey Sanctuary, a Kente Cloth weaving village, and we saw baboons ripping apart a road sign.

After overnighting in Ho at the wonderful Sky Plus Hotel, we set out early to reach the falls on a 4 hour drive through the beautiful hills and mountains of Ghana's Volta Region.  We arrived at the "ranger station" where we paid our fees and had our last visit to a bathroom (although the water wasn't running and we had to carry in our own bucket of water to make the toilet flush).  Thank goodness for hand sanitizer!  Running water and soap are just not available everywhere.      

We hiked for about an hour along a pretty good trail through a beautiful rain forest, using 11 bridges to cross over the meandering river.  During the rainy season you can hear the falls thundering before you can see them.  When we arrived at the falls, the mist travelled out many meters which really helped to cool us off.  Thousands of bats make their home along the cliffs surrounding the falls which adds to the ambiance of this African adventure.   


There are both upper and lower falls.  Due to the danger of the trail during the rainy season, we were unable to visit the upper falls.  And you know what that means....
Gregg's going to make us go back!  

Home for General Conference and Family time

Gregg and I returned home for General Conference and  DTA (Director of Temporal Affairs) Training Meetings.  It was a very full week.  Two of our children, Brooke and Scott and their spouses, were in North Salt Lake with us.  The pictures are Gregg with Aiden and me with Oakley (Brooke and Joe's children).

While Gregg returned to Africa, I traveled to Reno with Brooke and her son, Aiden, to be Grandma for a week with Greg and Alison's children. I am pictured with Ruth, Grace, and Lina in our banana skirts, and with Collin in our African shirts. Greg and Alison headed off to Yosemite for some great hiking.  My mom also joined us in Reno, which was fun.  I filled my hug quota and won't be back to the U.S. until next July.  It is hard to believe how fast little people grow. 
Oh, how we love them!